Sometimes for a summer resident, the long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real natural disaster. As a result of the prolonged summer rainfall, as during the spring flood, a real lake can form on the site.
In order to avoid stagnation of water, a collection and removal system from the territory is needed. If you build a storm sewer with your own hands, then the cost of its construction will be minimal.
The article presented for familiarization sets out in detail the principle of design of an atmospheric water drainage system, describes the components of the structure. We will tell you how to build it better and how to maintain it. Given our advice, the organization of stormwater will not cause the slightest difficulty.
Storm drain options
Storm sewage - a specific design. In the water discharged through this system, both small and large debris is present. Therefore, in the storm must be primary treatment.
The system may differ in the volume of water that it is able to accept, design, duration of effective functioning.
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Rainwater drainage spot
Canal construction and installation of storm water inlets
Foundation protection against loosening
Accessories for assembling a storm system
Based on the system device, one can distinguish 3 types of stormwater:
- Open. It has the simplest construction, is easy to execute, and is inexpensive.
- Closed. This option is more complicated. Here you have to deal with underground pipes, storm water inlets. The system needs to be planned in advance, and installation is better done by a specialist.
- Mixed. Choose when there is not enough finance to implement option 2, and also if you need to cover a large area. It is something between the first two.
Storm sewage of the first type is performed in the form of drainage trays built into the coating. According to them, water enters a specially designated place or simply merges into the garden. The system of the second type is located below the zero point, which involves excavation in a considerable amount and the corresponding financial investments.
The surface drainage can fit perfectly into the landscape design of the cottage, and even become its decoration. Use the system in small areas
Equipped with such a storm mainly during the development of the site, since this is a simpler freezing version. They deepen the system not very deep - up to a meter maximum, but both in winter and early spring it is not involved in the work.
So that the sewage system does not freeze, pipes are buried below the freezing point. In the third type of stormwater, the elements of the sewage system are located partially both on top and in the soil.
Experts say that the choice of such an expensive option ‚as a closed storm shower‚ should be justified. Such a decision can be justified by high requirements for the design of the territory
Design of a storm shower is always individual. It is unlikely that there are sites with absolutely similar conditions. They will always differ ‚if not in relief, then in layout, in soil properties, in the number of outbuildings.
Storm rains are needed both at the enterprise ‚and in private estates. The difference in their design lies in the fact that large-scale systems combine with the discharge of treated water, which are used for the needs of the enterprise
The main elements of the classic sewer
Storm sewage can be point and linear. The first option involves collecting water from non-moisture-absorbing surfaces, such as roofs, paved areas. In the future, the effluents go to the receiving tanks, and then enter the drainage system.
With the linear method of discharging wastewater, the water is drained into trays located at paths and platforms. A simplified version of storm sewers consists of the following elements:
- a central pipe, laid under a layer of earth and finishing coat and leading the collected water to the extreme point of the scheme;
- trays - the main part of the system transporting excess water to the sand traps ‚the efficiency of the drainage system largely depends on them;
- a storm water inlet located under a pipe or at a low point in the yard to collect liquid;
- filters and distributors - invisible, but extremely responsible components.
All elements included in the system are equally important. If any of them fails, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.
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Point type storm water inlet
Connection to the gutter system
The principle of the point sewage system
Paving of a platform with stormwater
Types of storm water inlets for sewage
The purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect moisture coming from pipes, yard cover. This element is the first to take over the entire volume of water coming from the drainpipes. Choosing a storm water inlet, they are guided by such data as the average amount of precipitation, their intensity, topography, and the area occupied by storm sewers.
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Stormwater inlet with linear inlet
Rainwater Point System
The device trays of storm sewers
Protective decorative grille
You can buy a storm inlet pig-iron or plastic. The former are preferable in case of heavy loads, and the latter attract moderate cost, light weight, simplifying installation. A cheaper option is to make a storm water inlet for storm sewers in your own country from brick with your own hand.
The walls of the pit are faced with brick, leaving a hole for the pipe, then plastered from the inside. And even better - leave a gap between the wall of soil and the cover and fill it with concrete. The bottom of the storm water inlet must be concreted.
Not one stormwater can do without a storm water inlet. It preserves both the foundation of the building and the coating around it. If you try to save on its installation, then the water falling on the foundation will lead to shrinkage and cracks on the walls of the building
This important element is also made of concrete rings. Then the bottom ring can be purchased with a ready bottom and you do not have to fill the plate. Sometimes factory storm water inlets come on sale complete with a basket, siphon, decorative grille.
Most often used for private construction, storm water inlets made of plastic or composite materials are produced in the form of a cube, each side of which is 30 -40 cm. There are adapters for inserting pipes from below and from all sides of the product.
Grids for storm water inlets may have different quality and cost. It is always necessary to proceed from the expected loads on them during operation
In order not to clog the pipes with debris falling through the lattice cells, the storm water inlets are equipped with baskets. As soon as they are full ‚they are taken out and cleaned, then returned to the place.
The design of the factory storm water inlet provides partitions dividing its internal space into compartments and creating a water lock. As a result, the unpleasant odor from decomposing organic matter does not penetrate outward.
The efficiency of a point storm water inlet depends not only on its volume, but also on the installation location. It should be located under a drain or in a place where moisture constantly collects. If it is installed under the pipe, then the jets must exactly fall into the center of the grate; otherwise, part of the water will fall onto the foundation or covering the yard in the form of splashes.
Why are sand traps needed?
Rain and melt water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If sand traps are not included in the scheme, dirt will settle in the sewers and it will cease to function in full. Flushing the system is expensive.
The sand trap is a camera installed behind point receivers in places where water is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed so that the flow of water ‚getting into it‚ reduces the speed.
As a result, under the influence of gravity, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid freed from them leaves through a special hole. In shape, the sand trap is a trap with many chambers located horizontally or a chamber in a vertical design.
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The sand trap is integrated in the storm water inlet
Sand traps in combined systems
Sand trap for public stormwater
Trap device for household system
What are drainage channels?
If the blind area around the house has already been completed and the drainage system has not been taken care of, drainage gutters, which are also called linear storm water inlets, can be used as a way out. Channels made of concrete or plastic are laid outside the blind areas parallel to the paths and overhangs of the roof with a certain slope.
Water enters the linear drainage channels both from the roof gutters and from the entire yard, covered with asphalt or slabs. Such sewage can cover much more objects than point. When buying ready-made trays, it is necessary to pay attention to such important parameters as the class of permissible load and tensile strength.
The tray, at first glance, the product is very simple, but if they are not correctly calculated, the system will not work fully. It is necessary to take into account the carrying capacity of the stormwater ‚and the type of coating‚ and the degree of pollution of the discharged water
The weakest products are marked A15. This means that their use is permissible with a maximum load of up to 1, 5 tons. They are installed around the perimeter of the house ‚in pedestrian and designated areas for cyclists. Trays of class B125 cope without damage to their integrity with a load of up to 12.5 tons. They will not be damaged by the weight of the car, therefore they are appropriate in the garage area.
For private construction, do not buy massive concrete gutters ‚plastic trays are quite suitable here. They have a strength class A ‚B‚ C. The material for their manufacture is polyethylene or polypropylene.
An important parameter when selecting trays is the hydraulic section, indicated by the abbreviation DN. It must correspond to the diameter of the pipes supplied to these elements. For plastic gutters, the DN value ranges from 70 to 300.
The length of the standard tray is 1 m. The products are equipped with a locking system ‚with its help the gutters can be arranged in 1 line‚ connect them to the pipes or make branches. A rational choice for giving ‚a private house - models from DN100 to DN200.
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Variable throughput trays
Steel shower construction
Concrete Gutters
Practical plastic option
How to choose pipes?
For storm sewers according to SNiP, you can use pipes made of metal, asbestos or plastic. Most often, for a private house and cottage, the choice is stopped on plastic pipes. They are lightweight ‚decorative‚ do not corrode ‚their installation is simple, but the mechanical strength of the material‚ in comparison with metal ‚is small.
Having chosen the material, you need to determine the diameter of the pipes.
The initial value is the largest volume of discharged rain and melt water. This parameter is determined by the formula:
Q = q20 × F × Ψ
Here: Q is the desired volume ‚q20 is the coefficient‚ characterizing the intensity of precipitation for 20 seconds. (l per second per 1 ha). F is the compound area in ha, if the roof is pitched, the area is calculated on the horizontal plane. Ψ is the absorption coefficient.
Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, its value can be taken from the table
Based on the calculated value and using the Lukin's tables, they find not only the diameter but also the slope of the system.
Most often, home storm sewers are performed using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. The optimal slope of the drains can be taken from this table.
With the correct selection of the diameter of the pipes, storm sewers will cope with the task even at times of the most heavy rainfall. If flows from several gutters enter the pipe, all of them summarize. Practitioners for pipes with a cross section of 110 mm and gutters of the same diameter usually use a slope of 20 mm / linear. M.
If the pipe is connected to the storm water inlet, the slope value is slightly increased to avoid stagnation of the liquid, and when entering the sand trap, the slope is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and suspended particles settle to the bottom in greater quantities.
Water in a sewer system of this type drains by gravity, which occurs due to the formed slope of the drainage pipe. There are no pressure pumps, so in the country house or in the country compound for the storm sewer it is not necessary to look for a team of professionals.
All the work the owner will be able to perform independently. Details of the calculations for the organization of storm sewers are written in the article, the contents of which we recommend to read.
Where is a well and a collector needed?
As in any system ‚consisting of underground pipes‚ there must be a well in storm sewers.
Installing it is advisable in the following circumstances:
- if 2 or more streams converge;
- when it is necessary to radically change the height of the bed, the direction of the pipeline or its slope;
- when it becomes necessary to switch to a larger pipe diameter.
Wells are also provided for at fixed intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well does not exceed 150 mm, then the next is placed at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm, from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, the interval is increased to 70-75 m.
The diameter of the well of a private house does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well ‚the larger its diameter should be.
Some owners lay wells in the old fashioned way from brick or reinforced concrete rings. Others prefer more advanced materials - plastic and fiberglass. By design, the wells are collapsible and solid.
They have the shape of a cylinder with a completely sealed bottom and a hole at the top. To connect the pipes there are nozzles. As wells, several assembled storm water inlets are also used.
All fluid flows are redirected to the collector after combining them into one. The choice of material for this element of storm sewers is individual and depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner
A collector is included in the system to redirect the collected water to a groundwater treatment plant or to a gutter. Sometimes its role is played by a large plastic well. It is turned into a drive by tightly closing the outlet pipes. To use water, use a submersible pump.
Pipes of large cross section are also used for the collector - reinforced concrete or plastic with the supply of all pipelines to them. On the construction market, you can also purchase a ready-made container for underground use. There are multi-chamber reservoirs where rain and melt water are treated according to the same principle as in septic tanks.
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Manifold for water redirection
Perforated ring absorbing well
Budget option of an absorbing well
Rainwater discharge into the gutter
How to install stormwater?
The stormwater is mounted using the same technology as a conventional sewer system. In any case, the design of the storm sewer system is preceded by a calculation ‚selection of the necessary materials.Before getting into the pipes, rainwater is collected on the roof of the house, so it is logical that the construction of the drain begins from the top point of the structure.
To install gutters on the roof, mark the upper and lower points between which the line is pulled. On this route gutters will be installed taking into account the slope. The direction of their installation depends on the location of the pipes for the drain.
To fix the gutters and pipes, brackets are installed, fixing them with self-tapping screws. In order for water to fall into the drain, funnels are needed at the lower points. When collecting trays and pipes ‚a sealant is applied to the joints. Sometimes at the edges of parts there are factory seals ‚then during their joining a tight connection is obtained.
The water collected from the roof by the gutters, through the vertical gutters, enters the storm sewer. The series of works on the device of a linear storm shower, regardless of its technical complexity, includes a number of traditional stages, these are:
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For the storm sewer we are developing a trench. We dig the soil manually, destroy the asphalt with special equipment or ordinary scrap
We fill the bottom of the trench with moving concrete to the depth of the tray so that the shelves of the tray are at the same level with the surface. We give the bottom of the trench a slope of 2 - 3 cm per 1 m. The slope should be directed towards the collector well.
Having beaten off the storm sewer line stretched between the pegs of twine, we assemble the system from trays with a protective and decorative lattice. Align the channels according to the design slope, until the concrete begins to harden
In the places designated in the project, we install sand traps, connect them to the channels laid in the trenches
On the side of the trench, we construct the formwork from the board and pour concrete mortar between it and the tray laid in the trench
While filling the free space in the formwork with concrete, we align the flooded array. At the same time, we check the slope, if necessary, adjust the position of the trays
We expect the solution to solidify for at least 14 days, it is better to wait 28 days. At this time, it must be covered with polyethylene and periodically sprayed with water
At the end of the technological break, we dismantle the formwork, level the site with sand and gravel, bridge it with paving slabs or a coating you like
Stage 1: Trench development manually or by technique
Stage 2: Laying Concrete Mortar on the Trench Bottom
Stage 3: Assembly of the storm sewer tray
Stage 4: Installation and connection of sand traps
Stage 5: Construction of the formwork and pouring concrete
Step 6: Align the system during pouring
Step 7: Curing Process Break
Step 8: Paving the site with the selected coating
Precision drainage of rain and meltwater
The first step is the marking of the pipeline ‚consisting of channels‚ receivers ‚wells. Pegs are driven in at the points of arrangement of all elements. A cord is laid between the pegs to see the full picture. The second stage is the digging of the trench and small recesses under the storm water inlets. At the bottom, arrange a sand pillow.
If there is a threat of root sprouting in places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom is covered with geotextiles. The installation process begins the installation of wells ‚collectors.
Further smaller elements - storm water inlets, sand traps ‚trays. All this is combined by pipes of the calculated diameter under the slope selected from the table or recommended by SNiP. When laying the pipeline, sagging is unacceptable.
The assembled design is tested. Water is spilled on each section to check the tightness of the joints. The amount of water flooded and released should be approximately the same. A defect such as sagging can be detected, as indicated by a significant difference in the volumes of water at the inlet and outlet.
If the tests do not reveal problems, the system is covered with a sand-cement layer and soil. Sometimes some details of storm sewers are combined with a drainage system. At the same time, the pipes must first be on top of the second pipeline, but they can approach one collector.
The combination of storm sewers with ordinary household can not be allowed. This can lead to overloading the second with all the negative consequences.
Let us analyze the construction of storm sewers with point water intake devices as an example. They built it from ordinary sewer pipes. The reason was stagnation of water on the surface, formed due to the practical lack of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of soils.
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The device of the drainage system on the site dictated the need for stormwater. The water collected by the drain was discharged to the ground and was not absorbed into the soil for a long time.
We dig trenches under the gutters and corners of the roof, perpendicular to the foundation, so as not to develop wide openings and reduce the amount of excavation
At a distance of about 1 m from the walls of the house, we dig a trench laid along the walls of the building. Main pipes of Ø160 mm will be laid in it, to which we will connect the branches from the drain, assembled from sewer pipes of Ø110 mm
In order to form a slope in the direction of the current of collected water, the bottom of the trench was covered with sand and rammed with the required slope. At the main sections, 3 cm of slope per meter was obtained, at branches of about 10 cm
On vertically located pipes, which we will subsequently connect to the gutters, we temporarily put plugs. So we will protect the system from sand falling during work
We fall asleep in a trench with storm sewer sand. Do not use "native" soil, as it is clay. So, in part, we will create conditions for accelerating snow cover melting during melting.
We lay the main pipes so that the slope is formed in the direction of the movement of water towards unloading. As a result, all trunk sections should be inclined. According to the rules on turns, you need to put rotary wells for cleaning, but in the example they were not used
If it is impossible to connect the outlet section of the storm shower at a right angle, we connect it under a sharp one. but we take into account that the angle should be directed towards the water flow
Step 1: Organized gutter without storm sewers
Step 2: Development of trenches for stormwater
Step: 3 Formation of a trench around the perimeter of the house
Step 4: Laying the sewer pipes in the bed
Step 5: Installing the plug on the sewer pipe
Step 6: Backfill Short Trenches With Bends
Step 7: Laying the main pipes with a slope
Step 8: Angle Outlet Pipe Connection
We assume that we laid the lines properly with a slope, connected the bends to them, observing the tightness of the joints. In this case, tightness is needed not to protect the surrounding soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system.
We will continue the work, now it is necessary to connect the stormwater to the pipe leading to the absorbing well:
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Step 9: Change the slope by adding sand under the pipes
Step 10: Assembling the assembly to the outlet pipe
Step 11: Connecting the assembly to the discharge pipe
Step 12: Putting the storm sewer into the discharge
Storm drain prevention
Having mounted the storm sewer of a private house or cottage on your own, one should not forget that it needs constant care. Preventive measures include cleaning the trays and pit storm water inlets from trash settled in them.
If you neglect this procedure, the system will certainly fail. The ideal option is to use the system all year round.
Self-regulating cable can heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix, located between two copper conductors. Such a cable will prevent freezing of any pipes during a period of lowering temperature
During the cold season, thaws occur during which water from the drainage system enters the canals and pipes. Then she moves into the storm sewer,
where it freezes, it turns into ice.
To prevent the formation of ice plugs in stormwater, a self-regulating heating cable is led into storm water inlets located under the gutters. So in the warming system, ice jams will not be created, and if they are formed, it will be possible to quickly get rid of them.
The installation process of storm sewers will not seem so complicated after viewing this material:
Despite the fact that storm sewage is a complex engineering system, its creation is within the power of even a person who is not burdened with deep knowledge in the construction business. It is worth following all the tips exactly and the storm sewer around a private house will work flawlessly.
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